Clusters Last Stand!

 

 

I don't know about all of you, but I really like to know whats going on around me. Monitoring my engine is a very important issue to me, perhaps because of the years I spent driving every type of bus imaginable, and still do. Now, if fact, I teach people how to drive those buses!

Not knocking it, but the instrument cluster in the GMC is really kind of boring...rather spartan for a coach that was so far ahead of its time. The time has come to change all that.

In my first coach, a 76 Birchaven, I installed a MacNeil Dash. This dash was constructed perfectly, and Mac is a great craftsman! Imagine my excitement when I found this one on E-Bay...

"GMC MOTORHOME DELUXE DASH, NEW! NR!"

 

Well, I was happier than a pig in...Well, You know. Won it for 649.00

I bought it. It really is a nice dash, but unfortunately, Mac didnt make this one. I have no idea who did. Someone suggested Cinnabar Engineering, but they doubted highly that it was one of theirs. Someday, perhaps I will find out who made this dash.

 

It is equipped with VDO gauges, and includes just about everything that one would want to monitor, except air pressure. I will have them order me a dual VDO gauge, as the Blue Bird buses use the same gauge, so I will get it there.

My confusion will be the wiring. There are no diagrams, no anything. Just a dash. Good thing I know how to do electrical on vehicles and have done many stereo installs and dash conversions in the past in different cars...This should really be no different.

The photo below show what I am dealing with. You should be able to see 3 distinct looms there.

I also ordered a couple more "EL Strips" This is what provides the backlighting. They are only a few bucks, and I need a few to enhance something...

I will make up a sheet after I trace all the wires down. Should not be too difficult. I am also going to have to use the trusty dremel too to make the radio slot capable for todays DIN radios. No Biggie...

Here are a few more shots of the dash...

 

I finally decided to get off my butt and tackle this cluster installation. Please feel free to follow along...

The first step is to make the new dash ready for installation. To do this I decided to use the blue butt connectors. I will not, under any circumstances, ever use the scotch locks. I have had way too many issues with these in the past, and almost a fire from a bad connection. Take the time and do it right! I was going to put in plugs, but fter a few discussions, and since I have no plans to remove the panel again, i will simply hard wire. I can remove individual pieces as needed. Here are the connections all made.

Now for the fun part...

I began by simply removing everything that would be in the way, beginning with the back cover on the dash. Once that was removed, and safely placed elsewhere, I unplugged the headlight switch, and removed the on/off rod. This is done by simply pulling the switch out and depressing the little spring button on the side, then as you press, then pull the rod out. I decided to replace the switch while I was there. Inexpensive insurance, and hey, I'm already in there. here is what I am referring to.

Here is a picture with a NAPA switch.

Here are some part numbers for the headlight switch if you need them. I really would replace this switch, they arent that expensive.

Delco D1558

Blue Streak DS 155

Borg Warner S427

Wells SW144

 

Then, I removed the front bezel plate. What you will see then is this view. (note, I accidentally erased some of my pictures, so I am borrowing a few from the photo page, in order to make things clearer.)

I then proceeded to unplug and remove the gauge pack and speedometer. The speedometer cable is on the rear of the speedo...simply push down on the little clip and pull the cable out.

Unplug the wire harnesses from the rear of both of the gauges, then remove them. When done, it will look like so.

At this point, I then went after the ac controls, the 2 rockers for boost and fuel, and then the radio. pretty much unscrew it from that panel. If you so choose, you can simply unplug everything and remove the unit as a whole piece, and that would look like this...

Again, I borrowed these pictures so that you can see exactly how things should look. I am hoping that I can get names for who the pictures belong to so they can be credited properly. To make a long story short, you don't want anything in the panel when you begin cutting.

I used a air saw, and a cut off wheel to do all my cutting.

It took about 2 hours of trial and error fitment, but it did finally get cut out. Those were the days when they used REAL metal... The end result will look like this.

You will want to leave the area for the ac controls intact. On my dash, which had been recovered in a pleasing grey leather, I had to slice a little of the leather off to get the dash to fit in there. The test fit looks as the photo below.

If you remember the earlier pictures, the tach and speedometer were in different positions. I decided to swap them around as the speedo cable would be bent in a bad position to leave it be the way it was. I think it looks great at this point.

Now, the wiring...

This plug was the one on the back side of the speedo. It has the following hooked to it.

A- Light Green, this is the Hi Beam

C- Dark Blue, Right turn indicator

F- Black, Ground

G- Grey, Dash Light Illumination

H- Light Blue, Left Turn indicator.

It looks like this before its cut...

Then, on the back of the gauge cluster, the plug wires are colored as follows.

A- Grey, dash Illumination (seal this one off, unless your dash requires two.)

C- grey, with black stripe is the fuel sender.

D- Dark Blue, Oil pressure sender.

E- Tan, Brake Tell Tale.

F- Pink/Black stripe, 12V power from ignition.

G- Brown, Generator Tell Tale.

H- Dark Green, Temperature Tell Tale.

That plug looks like so...

You will need to follow the direction that came with your dash for the batt boost and fuel selector switch. Mine was totally different than anything else, and Mac McNeil gives wonderful directions with his, unlike mine, which had none.

The other tell Tales are coded this way. The plug is on the tell tale light assembly.

Dark Green - Door Ajar

Brown - Low Air

Light Green - Park Brake

Black - Ground

White - Low Fuel

Pink/Black Stripe - 12V Ignition Power (use if/where needed, otherwise seal)

Yellow - Level to travel

Dark Blue - Cruise

 

When all is said and done, this is the little pile you should have left.

And the dash area should look like this...

I'm guessing that whoever covered the dash took that large chunk out of the top of it. I couldnt find that piece anywhere. I would also get some white lithium grease and lube that A/C controller. Make it work nice again!

From this point, it's simply a matter of reversing everything that you have done, and putting it all back together. I had to cut out the dash a little to allow for the modern radio that was in my coach already. Basically use the radio mounting cage and make the cut. Once it is all together, you will have this...

Not too shabby in my book, and it looks great too! It looks just as good at night.

I really hope this little tutorial help you out!